Certifying Organic: The Winemakers Weigh In
There seems to be a constant conversation happening in the wine world about the relevancy of organic winemaking. What does it really entail, and is it all that different? What about the “certificate”? Three of our organic winemakers - Kis Tamás (Tomi) from Somlói Vándor, Attila Pálffy (Atti) from P.A.N.K, and Csaba Malatinszky from Malatinszky Borkúria - give me their takes below.
1. Some people in the wine industry say that "certified" organic doesn't matter for wine. What do you think? Is there a big difference between people who are certified organic, and those who claim they are practicing organic?
Tomi: I think it is very important that an independent company controls and checks what we do, what we use, and our practices in the fields. They have samples from our land, our leaves, our wines. If we are controlled we have to be more precise. If you aren’t certified organic, you can buy various kinds of chemicals and you can buy grapes which aren’t certified, and no one checks what you blend into the wines in the cellar.
Atti: It’s important for us to authentically do whatever it is we represent. We have our own standards at the winery, which are stricter than those set out by the organic certificate. But it doesn’t mean that the certificate isn’t important – we believe it is an absolutely necessary step towards authenticity. One of the important regulations in the new 2023 Hungarian wine laws is that wines advertised as “natural” or “pét-nats” need to come from certified organic grapes and from wineries that are certified organic. This legal regulation will hopefully clarify things for Hungarian consumers and give greater credibility to actual natural wine producers, for whom this movement is really important!
Csaba: If we say we are organic, this statement should be supported by an independent organization. Just like in any business, if you claim to be something you need to back it up with evidence. It’s easy to be outstanding if it’s all talk; actually backing it up is much harder.
2. What's the biggest thing you think people should know about organic versus non-organic winemaking? How about organic versus non-organic farming?
Tomi: The differences aren’t too drastic in the cellar. If you use any fining or fermentation product, it also needs to be organic, and you’re not allowed to use any enzymes. The farming is the key difference! Here you can use no pesticides, no chemicals, no chemical fertilizer and no weed killer. The only products that are allowed are those that can’t go into the vines’ metabolism (contact products). The more living the soil, the more flavors we have in the wine.
Atti: As I mentioned, we work according to much stricter principles than the organic regulations, because many (organic) additives can still be used in the production of organic wine (like yeast, nutritional salt, and sulfur). During grape cultivation, they check what kind of plant protection agent is used. You can only work with pre-defined agents, which the manufacturer must also certify as complying with organic regulations. It is forbidden to use herbicides, insecticides and absorbents in organic farming.
Csaba: Maybe we all know that chemicals do not help us to be healthy. Organic is working without these chemicals, since no “additives” are allowed aside from a moderated SO2 quantity. The other significant benefit of organic farming is its effect on the natural environment. ”Organic” means that you are not fighting with the living era, it is a part of it. Nowadays we often talk about a “damaging footprint,” and this is much smaller under organic farming.
3. Why did you decide to certify organic? How long did it take? Was it an easy process for you?
Tomi: I decided to go organic in 2014, and in 2018 we were certified. I wanted to live and work in cleaner vineyards. It’s a lot of administration and takes 3 years when you first get the certificate.
Atti: For us this was not even a question. It was important for us to take care of our environment, as we live and work there. Because of irresponsible human cultivation, the environment is sterilized and monocultures have formed. So our task is also to create vineyards with as much biodiversity as possible. In these vineyards, there are not only grapes but living creatures, insects, and plants, and we feel good about that. The transition to organic wasn’t difficult for us, since we were already practicing this way. The P.A.N.K winery has been certified organic since its inception (2019).
Csaba: To be authentic on the market, you should be certified organic. I started 20 years ago producing fruits and vegetables organically for my family because I knew of the many benefits of this. Following a year of practice in that, I had the idea to work this way in the vineyards too. This was my evolution in thinking towards a responsible approach to human society and nature. As with everything, it needed more of my energy at the start, but I never had any serious problems farming organically. I had to learn a totally different method that is based on an appreciation of all other living things.
4. Do you taste a difference in your own wines? If so, why do you think that is?
Tomi: Of course. Year by year the wines are getting more complex, more harmonic in sugar - acid levels. They are also gaining a more complex texture over time.
Atti: It’s difficult to put this into words, but in a nutshell, you are what you eat and drink. For me, it is more fun tasting a natural or organic wine, or eating a certified organic fruit or food. I feel that there is a more positive energy in these foods and wines, and I find that they’re much better to eat.
Csaba: Yes, I can feel the evolution of my wines; they have higher dynamics, liveliness and resonance.
5. Anything else you think people should know about organic winemaking?
Tomi: I think that it is the future of farming, and we should change our minds. A lot of Illnesses and health issues come from bad foods, originating in fields that are full of chemicals. I know that it is a very hard process, more expensive, and you have a bit lower yields, but we must do it. Organic winemaking is the perfect way to go if we are proud of our land, and if we want to hold onto it for further centuries for the next generations.
Atti: If we are just trying to live a tiny bit more healthily, we should buy organic products! We are doing good not only for ourselves and our health, but also for the environment and for the farmer from whom we buy the products. Let’s look around in our own environment, near us, to find small organic producers from whom we can get our food. Although these products are a bit more expensive, we can support the producers and show them that their thinking and work is important. This may be a naïve way of thinking, but with this we can get into a positive spiral, with which we can contribute to keeping the Earth a liveable planet.
Csaba: Consciousness is needed for a worthy life. If we know more about the things around us, will be in the position to make the right decisions. This is an approach for a harmonious life.